A road trip to Robbinsville, NC
*During this trip to the Robinsville, NC my wife and I were guests of the Snowbird Mountain Lodge. The opinions in this article are my own.
As the sun comes up at Sunrise Point at the Snowbird Mountain Lodge in Graham County, North Carolina, something magical happens. The strong hues of orange start filling the horizon behind the blue tinted Great Smoky mountains. Below those tall peaks and ridges, a sea of thick white clouds flow through the valley with a few clouds of “smoke” hovering above the thick forests. It’s no wonder the Cherokee called this ancient mountain range, Schaonage, “land of the blue smoke.”
Guests have been coming to the Snowbird Mountain Lodge since 1941. This all-inclusive resort spans 100 acres between the Cherohala Skyway and the town of Robbinsville, North Carolina.
This part of North Carolina is about as remote as you can get. Some even say this is the last “frontier” in the Tarheel State. With National Forests, Wilderness areas, two large lakes and Cherokee Tribal lands encompassing most of the county, the population of Graham County remains small at just over 8,000 people. At the center of it all is the tiny town of Robbinsville, home of a country music hitmaker, a legendary Cherokee chief and a cross cultural vibe fueling interest in this slice of the Great Smoky Mountains.
The more than 40 miles of the Cherohala Skyway take you on a journey through the Nantahala National Forest in North Carolina and the Cherokee National Forest in Tennessee. Along the way you will find overlooks like this one bringing you stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.
Small town hospitality and tribal history
The Kin Café sits on the small courthouse square in the middle of Downtown Robbinsville. Bright white brick walls line one side of this coffee shop while bright sheets of tin line the other side of the room and the bottom of the bar. There are plenty of places to sit and work on your computer or carry on conversations with friends. Each cup of joe served is made with coffee roasted in North Carolina. But for those non-coffee drinkers, the Kin Café offers teas from around the world, as well as decadent bakery treats.
Cozy up to the bar or grab a couch at the Kin Cafe in downtown Robbinsville, North Carolina and enjoy fresh locally roasted coffee and decadent bakery items.
On the other side of the square, Lynn’s Place Restaurant serves up what they call “American Cuisine rooted in the Carolina Mountains honoring family recipes.” It’s a place where locals go for great food and to catch up on what’s happening. Plenty of people out exploring the area also end up there and if they are like my wife and I, they will want to come back for more.
Many small towns have a gathering place and Lynn’s Place certainly fits the bill in Robbinsville, North Carolina.
Take time after your Kin Café coffee or lunch at Lynn’s and head out for a stroll around town. The Graham County Courthouse, clad in beautiful stonework, sits at the heart of town. There are a few other buildings around the square, some of which may be familiar to fans of the movie “Nell” starring Liam Neeson, Jodie Foster and Natasha Richardson. The town of Robbinsville has waymarking signs to many of the key places to see with walking times to each noted beside them.
The Classical Revival Graham County Courthouse in Robbinsville, North Carolina has a Knoxville connection. It was designed by architects Barber and McMurry of Knoxville. It is listed on the National Register of Historical Places.
Even on a sunny day, the song “Smoky Mountain Rain” is sure to come to mind when you see the mural of Ronnie Milsap on the side of the Graham County Co-Op Extension building. This country crossover artist had dozens of number one hits on the Country Music Charts, multiple Grammy Awards and is a member of the Country Music Hall of Fame. The Milsap Mural created by Scott Nurkin is part of the North Carolina Musicians Mural Trail.
Ronnie Milsap was born in Robbinsville, NC and was blind at birth. He overcame the odds and became one of Country Music’s biggest artists eventually being inducted into the Country Music Hall of Fame.
A few blocks down Main Street another mural tells the story of the Snowbird Cherokee and the prominent role women play in Cherokee society. The Snowbird are part of a group that hid deep in the mountains during the Cherokee removal. They remain in Graham County, North Carolina as part of the Eastern Band of the Cherokee.
Just a few miles from this mural you will find the Snowbird Community home to an Eastern Band of the Cherokee Services Center. The Snowbird Cherokee hid deep in the mountains around Robbinsville during the Cherokee Removal.
Chief Junaluska is a legendary figure in both Cherokee and American history. History credits him with saving the life of General Andrew Jackson at the Battle of Horseshoe Bend. Eventually federal forces removed Junaluska from his North Carolina home along with thousands of other members of the Cherokee tribe and relocated to Oklahoma. In 1843 Junaluska (a man in his sixties) walked back to North Carolina and was eventually made a citizen and given land in the Robbinsville area. Today you can visit his grave site and walk along the “Traditional Medicine Trail” on the property
The legend of Chief Junaluska stretches far from his burial site in Robbinsville, North Carolina. Near Waynesville, North Carolina there is a lake named after him.
Mountain lakes, wilderness, and scenic drives
Those who seek outdoor adventure pursue many paths in this part of the Great Smoky Mountains. Just a short distance outside of Robbinsville, the more than 70-miles of shoreline along Lake Santeetlah provides plenty of room for adventure. Much of the lake is surrounded by the Nantahala National Forest and the Joyce Kilmer Wilderness area so its waters are pristine and generally calm.
While much of Santeetlah Lake looks like this you will see many narrow coves when you drive in and around Robbinsville.
The other big lake in the area is Fontana, along the Little Tennessee River. TVA built the dam that created this lake back in the 1940’s. The dam is the highest east of the Rocky Mountains at 480 feet. Be sure and check out the Visitors Center at the Dam to learn more about its rich history and to see the 360 degree view from the observation deck above it. Many scenes in the movie “Nell” were filmed along Fontana Lake.
Fontana Dam is part of the Tennessee Valley Authority system. The Appalachian Trail and a road cross the top of the dam.
Another great way to see the mountains in the area is to drive along the Cherohala Skyway. The name comes from the Cherokee and Nantahala National Forests which it passes through on its way through North Carolina and Tennessee. This scenic highway features many overlooks of the mountains and valleys and is popular with motorcycle riders and tourists both. For a bit of a ride on the wild side, head to the other side of Robbinsville and take the 318 curves in 11 mile challenge on “The Back of the Dragon (U.S.129).
From the Snowbird Mountain Lodge you get a view of a virtually unspoiled landscape.
The Snowbird Mountain Lodge
In 1941, the Snowbird Mountain Lodge began welcoming guests seeking an extraordinary experience in the mountains. Today, this mountain top retreat continues this tradition with its focus on the guest. Bookcases filled with hundreds of titles line the lobby next to the check-in desk. At the front are big picture windows where you can gaze out into the seemingly endless array of mountains and ridges. There are even binoculars and a telescope to help bring the views even closer.
Snowbird Mountain Lodge provides guests with a room filled with books to borrow while they are on the property along with a wide selection of wines, bourbons and whiskeys.
Whether you are staying in the main lodge or one of the adjacent ones, you won’t find any televisions. This is intentional as the Snowbird works to make sure your surroundings are the only distractions you’ll have during your stay. You can even enjoy time by a fire at several places on the property including a screened in lounge area just below the main lodge.
During your stay you are welcome to any of the books on the shelves. You can check out kayaks or canoes to use on the lakes and streams in the area or play a round of tennis or pickleball. There are plenty of hiking options on the 100 acre property including observation decks at Sunsrise and Sunset Points.
Fine dining helps set Snowbird Mountain Lodge apart from other resorts. Locally sourced foods are part of the three meals each guests receives as part of a night’s stay here.
The price of a room includes much more than just a place to sleep. This is basically an all-inclusive resort. In addition to the property amenities (that in some cases include two-person hot tubs, rain showers and saunas) each guest savors a three course meal at dinner, a full breakfast the next day and even gets a picnic lunch to take with them on their journey home, or when hitting the trails between the meals. The Lodge features a full bar with an extensive selection of bourbons and whiskeys as well as wine. Because of its remote location, the owners work with each guest to make sure the menus are varied to their tastes.
Viewing platforms like this one give you a place to unwind and enjoy the view at sunrise or sunset at Snowbird Mountain Lodge.
Exploring it all
While it would be great to keep this area “a secret” it’s difficult not to share what all there is to see and do here. It’s definitely not like Cherokee, NC or Gatlinburg, TN but if you have a sense of adventure or just want to get away from it all with or without a bit of luxury and pampering then you may just want to consider taking time to explore Robbinsville and the surrounding area.